A popular news site listed the 14 oldest Chinese restaurants in Metro Manila which are still running up to these times, titillating our taste buds for the past one hundred years.
Just how are you familiar with your Chinese food?
From Binondo and Sta. Cruz to Caloocan City (and wherever you might go these days), these authentic Chinese creations are still available upon your request.
1. Toho Food Center
Since 1866
Move over Ambos Mundos (c. 1888), this is Manila's oldest restaurant, and it's still owned by the same family that founded it. Despite its new brand name, however, most people still refer to Toho by its original identity: Antigua. According to the book "The Governor General’s Kitchen," Antigua was founded by Manuel “Po Kong” Bautista in 1866. He named his restaurant Antigua because he was said to value things whose qualities have proven their worth over time. As for its current name, the owners say that it is the English translation of the Hokkien word "just enough.” Historical personalities who have dined here include four Philippine presidents, actor Fernando Poe Sr, actress and singer Katy de la Cruz and Manila Mayor Arsenio Lacson.
Must order: During the 1930s, some of the more popular dishes on its menu included dishes like sopa de nido (bird’s nest soup), camaron rebosado (fried shrimp), pinsic frito (fried wonton) and bijon tostado (toasted fried bihon) — all are still in the menu. Toho's bestseller is pansit canton (stir-fried noodles, P125). It is said that people used to line up as early as 11 a.m. and again at 5pm just to buy the freshly cooked noodles. Another must-try is roasted pork asado (P180 for one-fourth kilo). Cooked fresh daily without the use of artificial coloring, it is beautifully sweet and tender and usually sold out by afternoon.
Hot foodie tip: It is possible to get a taste of the past here at Antigua. Toho offers dishes you don’t normally find in other Chinese restaurants, like pat mi shrimp (battered fried shrimp in spicy sauce, P220). Another item that is not on the menu but you can whisper gently to the waitresses' ear is fried milk (P180), dry-toasted noodles with bits of pork and shrimp that's covered with a sauce made from milk.
Get here: 422-424 Tomas Pinpin St, Binondo, Manila; +63 2 2420294. Mon-Sat 9am-9pm, Sun 9am-2pm.
2. Ilang Ilang Restaurant
Since 1908
According to the late food chronicler Doreen Gamboa Fernandez, this eatery got its name from the street where it is located, not from the flower. It was originally a noodle shop opened by a cook from Xiamen named Mr Nua and his son Eng Guan, and became a fully licensed restaurant in 1945. But unlike the panciteria around Plaza Sta Cruz, Ilang Ilang did not benefit from a lunchtime crowd, it was their dinner service that was more lucrative. Today most of its business comes from catering parties.
Must order: According to the book "The Governor General’s Kitchen," Ilang Ilang was known for its wide variety of noodle dishes. Regulars still swear by their bowl of lomi (thick noodles cooked in a thick and starchy egg broth, P115). They are also known for their rellenong hipon (stuffed deep-fried shrimp, P175), rice wine spare ribs (P195) and chami (P115). They are also the only ones we know who make fried gabi (P15), little balls of fried mashed taro that works well as a snack, a dessert or even as accompaniment to a savory dish.
Hot foodie tip: Because of Ilang Ilang's catering operations, it has a variety of dishes you wouldn't normally find in a regular panciteria. Some dishes require to be ordered in advance, like the braised pork with cua pao (P580) and eight treasures stuffed chicken (P480).
Get here: 551 Ilang ilang St. San Nicolas, Manila. +63 2 2419297, +63 2 2423266. Daily 8am-10:45pm.
3. Ramon Lee’s Panciteria
Since 1929
Ramon Lee came to the Philippines from Guangdong province with the goal of opening his own restaurant and earning enough money to go back to China to marry his fiancée Wong Yok King. In a few short years he was able to tick both boxes, but then World War II broke out and his restaurant was destroyed. Not one to wallow in despair, he immediately reopened at a new location on Ronquillo Street. His wife gave him a recipe for fried chicken and it became an instant hit. Mr. Lee knew that not everyone could afford to order fried chicken, so he introduced six-peso set meals that included the dish. One fan of Ramon Lee's fried chicken was Ferdinand Marcos.
Must try: The value lunch meals are still available with soup, rice, chicken and two side dishes, however they now cost P155 (inflation, darlings!). A whole fried chicken sets you back P330.
Hot foodie tip: Aside from fried chicken the menu boasts other panciteria classics such as cameron rebosado (deep-fried shrimp, P240), ampalaya con carne (stif-fried beef stir with bittergourd, P220), pata tim (sweet braised pork, P295), morisqueta tostado (fried rice, P35 per bowl) and bijon guisado (fried bihon, P200). Filipino dishes have also made it to the menu: kalderetang baka (beef and tomato stew, P245) and, a recent invention, sisig (P215).
Get here: 540 Ronquillo St, Sta. Cruz, Manila, +63 2 7330642. Mon-Sat 10 am-10pm, Sun 9am-10pm.
4. Ma Mon Luk
Since 1930
Ma Mon Luk arrived in Manila in 1918, with nothing but a determination to make his fortune here so he could go back to China and marry his sweetheart. He worked as a street vendor peddling chicken noodles from two large metal cans that he balanced on his shoulders. Being a natural showman, he would attract customers by singing and performing tricks. Eventually he became so popular that people would seek him from his post on the corner of Onpgin and Salazar Streets. Eventually he saved enough to open his own restaurant in the 1930s. It was then that he named his dish Ma’s Mi or literally Mr. Ma’s noodle. The name stuck and Filipinos now refer to any noodles-and-broth dish as mami. Ma eventually earned enough to marry his sweetheart and bring her to Manila. He went on to introduce a new dish, the siopao, to the general public. At first people were hesitant to try it, but Ma succeeded in not only making them try the hot steamed bun, it went on to become one of the best-loved Chinese dish in the country.
Must try: It is not hard to decide what to eat here as you have only two types of mami and two types of siopao to choose from. Pair either one with siomai (pork and shrimp dumpling, P45 for two pieces). A warm bowl of their regular chicken mami (P95) and asado siopao (roast pork siopao, P45) will only set you back a mere P140.
Get here: 545 Quezon Blvd, Quiapo, Manila, +63 2 7337596. Daily 9am to 8pm.
5. Boy Ching Woo
Since 1939
When war broke out between China and Japan, Nicolas Woo Sr fled to the Philippines as a refugee from Macau. He ended up in what was then the small town of Caloocan (the concept of Metro Manila did not exist back then). To survive, he opened a small panciteria on the corner of Mabini and J Rodriguez Streets. It later became popular for its line of noodle dishes such as the lomi, miki and pancit alanganin ("alanganin" means incomplete in Filipino and this dish is essentially pancit lomi without the egg). When his son Nicolas “Boy Ching” Woo Jr took over the eatery, he added more dishes to the menu such as battered chicken, lechon con tokwa (roast pork and bean curd) and beef rumble (chop suey but with beef strip instead of liver). The restaurant has since moved to its own building further inside J. Rodriguez Street and is now being managed by third generation Woos.
Must try: Signature dishes that have become popular like pancit alanganin (P80) and pancit miki guisado (fried thick noodles, P80). You definitely get your money’s worth if you order the pancit Shanghai (P120), a big bowl of flat egg noodles stir-fried with ham, roast pork, garlic and vegetable. The signature battered chicken (P170) is worth a try as is the beef rumble (P180) which is a bit on the sweet side.
Hot foodie tip: They also have other classic panciteria fare like pata tim (P400) and a selection of Filipino dishes such as sinigang (P120) and crispy pata (P390). Interestingly enough they also offer lasagna and baby back ribs for take away.
Get here: 103 BCW Building, J Rodriguez St, Caloocan City, +63 2 2871430, +63 2 2831499. Daily 11am-11pm.
6. Chuan Kee
Since the 1940s
Businessman Co Bio Tsing founded this popular corner eatery in Chinatown. It was originally a grocery with an eatery attached, but it became well known for its kiampong (rice cooked in pork stock). When Co retired to Hong Kong in the 1990s, none of his children were interested to take over, so Gerry Chua of Eng Bee Tin bakery bought the place and gave it a 21st century makeover but retained its old-world charm. Chua has since gone on to open a more upscale version of the restaurant on the second floor, which he now calls Café Mezzanine.
Must try: Definitely you must try the kiampong (P38), available as soon as the store is open at 6 a.m. Chuan Kee is also among the few Chinese restaurants in Binondo that you can try herbal tonics lovingly prepared by Tsinoy moms and grandmothers for their family. Among them are the xibut soup (P160) and the go kong (P135).
Hot foodie tip: They also have the supposed aphrodisiac “Soup no. 5” (P220) on the menu. But according to Chua, the reason it is called as such is because of the five herbs used in the soup. The restaurant is also popular for its line of fresh fruit shakes (P50-P55).
Get here: 650 Ongpin cor Yuchengco Sts, Binondo, Manila; +63 2 2888888 loc 119. Daily 6am to 10pm.
7. Ongpin Mañosa Co.
Since 1940
The word mañosa supposedly means “skillful” in Spanish. But since most of our Spanish words are filtered through Mexico it could also mean “clever.” If that was the intent of the owner, then he probably wants to imply he is skillful and clever when it comes to cooking and running a restaurant. But another possible explanation as to why the owner named this restaurant Mañosa is that it was his family name. Whatever the reason, this restaurant must be doing something right to stay around for nearly seven decades. In recent years it has expanded to a number of locations around the city, but regulars say that the best one is this branch.
Must try: Despite starting out as a panciteria, the menu at the original branch stay close to its Tsinoy roots. You won’t find pata tim or ampalaya con carne, as in other panciteria. They emphasize more on dishes that are close to the Tsinoy’s heart like maki (pork meatballs in starchy soup, P100) or the machang (rice dumpling, P80).
Hot foodie tip: They are also known for noodle dishes, all of which they serve from bowls that runneth over. Popular among regulars is their chami (fried thick noodles) which is available as a regular (P105) or special (with added extra topping, P135) order.
Get here: 926 Ongpin St, Sta Cruz, Manila; +63 2 7333179. Mon-Sat 9am to 10pm, Sun 9am-9pm.
8. SaLido Restaurant
Since 1945
This coffee shop was opened in the aftermath of World War II by Benjamin King aka King Sy Dyak on Tomas Alonzo Street. It was named Lido, the Hokkien term for “the beautiful capital city”. What made it different from other eateries in Binondo was that it was like a gentleman's club, where businessmen from around the area socialized and discussed business over cups of its famous brewed coffee. When the original location was demolished and the restaurant moved its current location on Ongpin Street, the name was changed to SaLido. To woo back the regulars, it started making them personalized coffee mugs. Former Manila Mayor Alfredo Lim is among those who are fond of this restaurant.
Must try: Aside from the coffee (PHP65), try the oven-roasted pork asado (PHP235 for one-foruth kilo). Unlike other asado dishes, SaLido's has a pinkish tender meat, good layer of fat and golden brown skin as it doesn’t use food coloring. There's also the three cups chicken (chicken cooked in sesame oil, ginger and rice wine, PHP285), chami (fried thick noodles, PHP190) and steamed fish fillet (Php280).
Hot foodie tip: They are also popular for their breakfast, which includes everything from omelets, pancakes, Filipino breakfast meals and dimsums (only until 9:30am). The kitchen here has been known to accommodate the requests of guests such as using small chili peppers instead of bell pepper in the omelette.
Get here: 839 Ongpin Street, Sta. Cruz, Manila; +63 2 5213333, +63 2 5595491. Daily 6am to 9pm.
9. The Original Savory Escolta
Since 1950
Brothers Mariano, Vicente, Tony and Jose Ting started this restaurant on Escolta Street. Their golden crispy fried chicken drew in the crowd and made them famous. They then expanded the menu to include other panciteria favorites such as sweet and sour fish and miki bihon. Years later, the brothers moved the restaurant to its current location on Plaza Moraga, at the foot of Jones Bridge. By then public figures such as Ninoy Aquino would be seen regularly dining here. Even if Savory has expanded malls, the family will not close down the place that started it all.
Must try: Many of their original recipes are still available such as the fried chicken (PHP174 for half order), pancit canton (PHP195), Pata tim (braised pork, PHP480) and fried rice (PHP130). As for the rest of the menu, it is the same mix of Filipino and Chinese favorites you will find in most other panciteria such as lengua (braised pigs tongue, PHP350), bihon guisado (fried bihon, PHP195) and cameron rebosado (stuffed shrimp, PHP280).
Hot foodie tip: They are probably the only panciteria that serves roast turkey (PHP3,500 for 5kg). If you want to try it, you need to tell them three to five days in advance.
Get here: 201 Escolta Street, Binondo, Manila; +63 2 2418782, +63 2 2421443. Daily 9am-12mn.
10. Sun Wah
Since 1955
In order to open his own restaurant, Benjamin Leung first worked as a waiter at Panceteria Antigua and learn the ins and outs of managing a restaurant. When he was confident enough, he left Antigua to open Sun Wah on Florentino Torres Street. Since it was located near a number of publishing houses, his initial customers were news reporters. They helped spread the word about Sun Wah. In 1996 the restaurant caught fire. It was so serious that four of Sun Wah's cooks sustained third degree burns. Even so, Mr. Leung made the decision to reopen within a month, lest people think that they had closed down permanently. In an attempt to keep away further misfortune, they renamed the restaurant Wah Sun. But tragedy struck again when Mr. Leung was fatally shot in front of his restaurant in 2000 in an attempted robbery. This led his daughter Kathy to succeed him as head of the restaurant. Among the changes she has initiated has been to expand the air-conditioned dining area on the second floor. As an added attraction, she has installed a mini-zoo on the second floor to show off her collection of exotic animals such as a monitor lizard and a Burmese python. She has also recently made a move to go back to the restaurant original name Sun Wah.
Must try: As with any panciteria, it still has all-time favorites such as pinsec frito (fried wonton skins, PHP188), isda sarsa blanca (fish in white sauce, PHP228), and pancit canton (PHP167). They also have dishes unique to them such as chuleta de gallinas (chicken fillet steak, PHP158) and torta cornegrejo (crab omelet, PHP268).
Hot foodie tip: Food writer Claude Tayag also noted that there are number of Cantonese dishes that have been indigenized but we have accepted as Chinese. Among them is the chow patzing (stir-fried vegetables and mushrooms with sea cucumber, PHP139), fried milk bihon (dry toasted bihon with milk sauce, PHP258) and pat mi ha (batter fried shrimp in spicy sauce, PHP478). Prices may be expensive, but Kathy insists on keeping it that way to maintain quality. She says customers will know it when the restaurant start cutting corners.
Get there: 747 Florentino Torres St, Sta Cruz, Manila; +63 2 7336718, +63 2 7341160. Daily 7:30am to 11pm.
11. Sincerity
Since 1956
It was the dream of Uy Mo Koan and Uy Lim Bee to open a restaurant in Manila that specializes in cuisine from the city of Xiamen. They were able to open one with only PHP600 as capital. They chose a small location along Carvajal Street in Binondo and named their restaurant Sincerity. After a fire destroyed their first branch, they moved to their current location over at Nueva Street (now known as Yuchengco). They became known for their inexpensive but tasty Hokkien dishes such as oyster cake and ngo hiong (kikiam). They also became known for their daily selection of home-style dishes such as spinach stir fried with pork, fried hasa hasa and fried pork chop. In recent years, management has been taking steps to upgrade and streamline their operations. Like a few other panciterias, they have now begun opening branches in malls.
Must try: They are most famous for there fried chicken (PHP150 for a half order), but many also come here for their generously stuffed oyster omelet (PHP140). The late food writer Doreen Fernandez also sang praises for their kekiam (meat roll wrapped in leaf lard, PHP50/roll). She says it is set apart with its large bits of chopped pork and accompanied by pickled radish and a spicy sauce.
Hot foodie tip: She also enjoyed the duck misua which has fine noodle, chunks of tender duck meat and a xibut flavored broth.
Get here: 497 Yuchengco St, Binondo, Manila; +63 2 2419991, +63 2 2419992. Mon–Sat 9am-9pm, Sun 9am-2pm
12. Marquina aka Lam Dynasty
Since the 1950s
This restaurant used to be located on Marquina Street in Binondo (which was how it got its name). It was unique for two reasons: First, the restaurant built its reputation on a dish created here in the Philippines instead of something brought over from China. It was the owner's crab rice that drew people to his restaurant and eventually the joint developed a reputation for fine seafood. Second, the decor was unique. Instead of the typical red and gold Chinese restaurant interiors popular at that time, the owner stuck to a nautical theme, complete with wood paneling and brass lanterns. The restaurant was sold to another group in the mid-1960s and expanded to Makati. By the 1980s the original Marquina closed down. Four years ago, one of the sons of the original Marquina founder started a new restaurant called Lam Dynasty. He seems intent to introduce to a new generation his father’s original recipes.
Must try: The current owner admits that the dishes he is offering is a mix of Chinese Filipino dishes rather than authentic Chinese. That is certainly the case with dishes like salmon steak (PHP350), lechon kawali (PHP220) and crispy pata (PHP450). Try the original crab rice (PHP200) or crab meat lomi (PHP200) and crab meat soup (PHP200).
Hot foodie tip: There are also Lam’s special crab, crab sotanghon and crab steamed with ginger and onion (prices vary according to season). They also offer a wide array of seafood dish such as chili shrimp (PHP240), fish fillet ampalaya (PHP220) and sting ray fish tausi (PHP200).
Get here: M/L Pacific Center, 460 Quintin Paredes St, Binondo, Manila; +63 2 3537404. Daily 9am-9pm.
13. Shantung Restaurant
Since 1958
Unlike most Chinese restaurants in Manila, this one was not started by a Chinese but by an Ilocana married to a Chinese, Hermingilda Chang, who learned to cook Chinese food from her husband who was from Shandong province. Her first venture was a three-table eatery along Benavidez Street in Binondo. When business prospered, she expanded to a bigger space on Echague Street, (Carlos Palanca Street today) in Quiapo. Because of its proximity to Malacañan Palace, a lot of famous political personalities were guests, among them President Ferdinand Marcos and First Lady Imelda Marcos. After a fire hit the Quiapo branch, they moved to its current location along West Avenue in Quezon City.
Must try: Regulars swear by their signature fried crispy chicken (PHP200) and the dumplings (steamed, PHP130). They also offer their own take on panciteria classics such as pata tim (PHP490), beef ampalaya (PHP165) and pancit canton (PHP150).
Hot foodie tip: They offer a selection of dishes that are not available elsewhere, like shredded pork with bamboo shoots (PHP145), pork in pechay sauce (PHP145) and sea cucumber in brown sauce (PHP210).
Get here: 96 West Ave, Bgy Philam Homes, Quezon City; +63 2 9284409, +63 2 9261957. Daily 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm.
14. Quik Snack
Since 1967
Originally from Cebu, Pilar Lim was already in her 60s when her son-in-law persuaded her to open a restaurant in Manila. Taking on the challenge she started by offering classic Tsinoy fares like fresh lumpia, oyster cake and kiampong. Married to an Indonesian, William Tijoe, she then started to add dishes like the Indonesian Tauhu. When she began introducing her own satay sauce to dishes such as fried noodles and stir-fried kangkong, people really began taking notice of this small eatery. By the 1980s, though, Mrs Lim began turning over the management of the restaurant to her grandson Edwin. She has also imparted to the kitchen staff many of her recipes including her satay sauce. Regulars swears that the food still taste as if she had prepared it herself.
Must try: Even if the name of the restaurant implies that Quik Snack might be a fast food, diners will be happy to known that everything is cooked to order here. Their bestseller is the fresh lumpia (PHP45). According to writer Chona Trinidad, the secret is the use of hoti or dried powdered seaweed to give an altogether different taste. Otber classic Tsinoy fare that are popular here are the oyster cake (PHP180) and rellenong hipon (PHP80).
Hot foodie tip: Since Lim was a devout Buddhist, you can find a few vegetarian friendly dish such as vege lomi (PHP110). As for her satay sauce? You can find it in dishes like sate beef kangkong (PHP85) and sate mi guisado (PHP 135). To end your meal, you might want to try the iced coffee with coffee jelly (PHP85).
Get here: 637–639 Carvajal St, Binondo, Manila; +63 2 2429572, +63 2 2429589. Mon-Sat 9am-6:30pm.